The Iridescence of Paris
To be classically sultry is always en vogue in the city of light
Paris deserves its reputation as the world’s most romantic city. No other place radiates such timeless
beauty and style. Best discovered on foot, every turn reveals a picture-perfect scene: bustling cafes that
ooze easy charm, historical landmarks, grand boulevards and beautifully designed squares and gardens.
For good reason, the city’s many visitors tend to become reflective in Paris, probably because the past
seems so much more vivid and substantial than the present. It’s an alluring nostalgia, but also perennially
new — both golden and grey. Somehow the city manages to remain immune to its own abundant clichés, as
relevant today as it was centuries ago. Paris is always a good idea. We know this, but what exactly are her
secrets? What gives Paris her chic?
Vintage therapy
Fashion is one way into Paris’s heart. The hunt for good vintage is a serious pastime for Parisians; delving
into fashion’s back-catalogue chimes perfectly with their love of timeless fashion and effortless chic.
Perhaps no other city in the world radiates with such a sense of timeless style than Paris.
Perhaps no other city in the world radiates with such a sense of timeless style than Paris.
The locals keep it relaxed and sexy without too many embellishments — perfecting classic looks that get them
noticed, not mocked, in the street. There’s a cultural fear of ridicule here that informs what they wear and
how they wear it. Nobody wants to look “overdone” or like they tried too hard.
Fortunately, there are hundreds of vintage boutiques dotted all over, lovingly curated and offering myriad
unique luxury pieces to achieve the ultimate Parisian silhouette.
Undoubtedly, the finest is Didier Ludot whose namesake shop at the Palais Royal gardens is
the institution
of vintage haute couture. Ludot, a legend in the world of vintage, is known for his encyclopedic knowledge
of fashion and presents museum-quality dresses from the 1920s to the 2000s, such as a Dior lavender Louveciennes dress from the winter 1957 collection, a Schiaparelli silk twill dress from the summer 1938
Circus collection, a 1960 Chanel black sequin mini dress and 1960s Valentino gowns — Ludot’s favourite.
Prices can reach the thousands and gowns from the shop have been worn on the red carpet by celebrities
including Julia Roberts, Demi Moore and Reese Witherspoon.
Parisian style has a certain appeal that the rest of the fashion world has long tuned in to - and not just for the latest haute couture.
Parisian style has a certain appeal that the rest of the fashion world has long tuned in to - and not just for the latest haute couture.
Another of the finest vintage stores is Thanx God I’m a VIP, located in a less salubrious
quarter of the
10th district. This large store is a favourite among local stylists and fashionistas in the know. The shop
takes the vintage boutique concept to the next level by offering an impressive up-market collection of most
major labels, including menswear, all organised along colour lines.
Those looking for a rare investment piece go to Odetta, tucked away in a quiet street of
the exquisite
historic district of Le Marais. This little gem has a wonderfully curated collection of day and evening
wear, specialising in ’90s iconic designer brands such as Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and
Comme des Garçons.
Only a short distance away is La Mode Vintage, which stocks the very best of French
couture: Chanel, Yves
Saint Laurent, Hermès and Jean Paul Gaultier. (You can even find a Courrèges dress originally owned by
Anglo-French style icon Jane Birkin.) La Mode is the most popular vintage boutique for Paris “It Girls” –
cool model-types such as Jeanne Damas and Lou Doillon.
Dining on les terrasses
Nobody watches the world go by better than the French. The outdoor terraces that spill out of Paris’s
countless bars, cafés and restaurants are the city’s lifeblood — a front-row seat; a place to see and be
seen. It’s been this way since the café society of the roaring ’20s, when writers such as Jean Cocteau,
Gertrude Stein, Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald strolled the Paris pavements, and the café culture
still thrives today.
Moreover, the latest al fresco venues are reconnecting with those heroes of the past by transforming Paris’s
historical locations into lavish new terraces — at iconic swimming pools, classic cinemas and grand old
train stations.
For example, Piscine Molitor recently reopened, having once been the city’s finest poolside
terrace, built
in 1929. The venue now hosts the city’s hippest and most luxurious parties, including a new Dive and Drink
event on the first Wednesday of each month. It’s an extraordinary sight, when come rain, hail or shine, the
poolside lifeguards teach the beautiful people “the art of diving.”
Alternatively, for something even more elevated, visit the Paris rooftops. Le Perchoir has
three lush
rooftop terraces in different corners of the city — the newest sits on top of the historic Gare de l’Est
train station and is an impressive neo-industrial glasshouse filled with abundant green foliage. Le
Perchoir’s other terraces are located in Menilmontant (the childhood home of Edith Piaf, with 360-degree
views of the city and an unmarked “speakeasy” street entrance); and Le Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville, whose views feature the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame.
And finally, for the hipster elite, or those who appreciate an Egyptian vibe, go to Le
Louxor — the oldest
cinema in Paris and the only one with a bar. Its exotic terrace has spectacular views of Sacré Cœur, but
with one small catch: you need to see a film to gain entry. Just make sure it’s a vintage black-and-white
one.
Snapshots of noir et blanc
A quintessential Paris photo is invariably a moody black-and-white one – dark, with heavily diffused
lighting and long shadows. This defining aesthetic was pioneered by the great French photographers of the
early 20th century – Henri Cartier-Bresson, Brassai and Jacques Henri Lartigue. However, Le Baiser de l’Hôtel de Ville (The Kiss at Hôtel De Ville) is perhaps the most iconic photograph ever taken in the City of Light. The image of a young couple kissing in a busy street was taken by photographer Robert Doisneau in
1950 and has become an internationally recognised symbol of young love.
“The city is always moving in a series of fleeting moments and magical surprises.”
“The city is always moving in a series of fleeting moments and magical surprises.”
That said, Paris is not a static picture. The city is always moving, in a series of fleeting moments and
magical surprises. Photos are easy to take here, and the monochrome format is also perfectly suited because
the city is built with cream-grey limestone that refracts light differently at various times of the day.
Experience these many tones through the lens firsthand with Focus on Paris, which operates
private
black-and-white photography tours during the day and night, including Antique Paris, Middle Age Paris and
The Light Century. It’s a unique way to appreciate the history of the city while receiving expert
photographic advice.
Another must-see is the Henri Cartier-Bresson Foundation, located in an elegant building in a small
cul-de-sac in Montparnasse. Cartier-Bresson was a master of the black-and-white format, and his exacting
composition and unique perspective on Paris street life blazed a trail for those who followed. The
Foundation offers a limited number of rare original prints for those who want to take a piece of HBC away
with them. You could also head to Polka Gallery in the Marais, which has an exclusive collection of original
Raymond Cauchetier pictures, who mirrored the nouvelle vague film directors Jean-Luc Godard, François
Truffaut and Jacques Demy during the 1950s.
The famed Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel, re-opens in 2017.
Rosewood
The Essence of Experience
The famed Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hôtel, re-opens in 2017 following an extensive and thoughtful renovation. Long considered one of the world's most majestic hotels, the landmark establishment graces Paris’s spectacular Place de la Concorde. Originally built in 1758, Hôtel de Crillon is a historic landmark that has stood through the reigns of two French kings, the French Revolution, and personifies the poise, elegance and spirit of Paris.